The leather is darker on one because its still wet. |
New things:
Metal Shank wedged between the texon board and a vegetan shank cover
New last and pattern
First pointed toe lasting
Used a mix of pva and vegetable glue for gluing the upper to the lining after the toe puff had been lasted.
Used a premade stacked heel
What went wrong:
Didn't allow for turn of cloth allowance when placing the topline tape so in places I barely got a mm of turning allowance folded over.
Sewed the upper at night without supplemental lighting and also used my knee lift which I don't normally do the result and awesomely stitched curve in places and disgraceful swoops and corners in others.
Cut the stitching in several places when removing the lining allowance. Mainly due to the uneven top stitching.
Counter and toepuff edges showed through again. *sigh* I can't seem to get this part right. I love the way the thermoplastic stuff gives a nice shape but skiving it before molding it doesn't work and filing after doesn't either. The only thing I can think of is that the leather is still too thin or too soft. A stiffer or thicker leather wouldn't shown through I don't think.
The premade heel wasn't worth it because I had to spend so much time trimming and filing it too fit.
For some reason I thought it a great idea to try the soling method where you stick a big piece of leather on the bottom and trim it to fit. Disaster I sliced the upper to bits in places and it ended up being all sad and lumpy.
The good things:
The pattern fits great. I tried a new method of pattern drafting by making a mean forme then creating the pattern. The fit is really good.
No pinching. Seriously how often does that happen with pointy toes. Like never.
The last is my size. The seller put a whole run of sizes up on ebay. I was only able to grab the 9 since they were like $20 and everyone snapped them all up.
They look pretty sexy on like a pair of manolo boots I had once.
The shank worked out fine as did the glue.
Next time I'll use my usual method of precut and shaping the sole. I'll nix the premade sole and sew my upper before midnight in lots of light.
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